Are you wearing the right sized bra?

Are you wearing the right sized bra?

Buying a new bra is possibly up there in the top most-hated shopping experiences for a woman – up there with shopping for swimsuits and jeans. But what may seem overwhelming can actually be quite fun – and simple! – if you have the know-how and tools to get it right.

All you need is a pen, paper, and a flexible tape measure.

The most important thing is to buy the correct size. Up to 80% of women are wearing the wrong sized bra – and the average woman will wear six different bra sizes throughout her adult life. Weight gain or loss, hormonal changes, breastfeeding, menopause, etc can all have a dramatic impact on the natural size of the breasts and also the torso – which is just as important in fitting a bra as breast size. The wrong sized bra is not only uncomfortable, it can be unhealthy too. Neck problems, back pain, and postural issues are just the tip of the iceberg. It’s worth getting it right.

Bra sizes are based on two main measurements: busts and underbust. The combination of these two measurements will determine your band size and cup size. The cup is sized relative to the band – so not all cups are equal! For example, if a 12C bra might be correct for cup size but too big in the band, the correct size to try would not be a 10C, but a 10D. Confusing? It doesn’t need to be.

Follow these easy steps:

1. Measure Underbust: wear your most comfortable bra but nothing else on top. Use a flexible tape measure. Measure around the rib cage directly under your breasts, with the tape not too tight or loose. The tape should be parallel to the floor (use a mirror to check). This measurement (in centimetres) is your band size. Record it.

2. Measure Bust: Measure with tape, again parallel to the floor and not too tight or loose, around the fullest part of your bust (still wearing your comfy bra). Your breast shape should not be impinged upon by the tape – have it comfortable against your body all the way around but no pressing. Record this measurement, again in centimetres, rounded to the nearest centimetre.

3. Determine your bra size: The sizing chart will help you work out your optimal bra size:

Size chart courtesy of Berlei

The following are signs the bra you are wearing is the wrong size:

Gratefully borrowed from google images…

• Baggy Cups = Cup size too large
• Bulging Boobs (top or sides) = Cup size too small
• Bra straps dig in = straps adjusted too tight, cups too small, or band too large
• Protruding wires = band size too large
• Back rides up = band size too small

The right bra isn’t just dependent on size.

Style, make and fabric used all play a part depending on your size, shape and preference, including cup shape, cup design, and specialist bras… below is a quick and easy guide.Enjoy shopping!

Cup Shape

• Unmoulded: no defined cup shape, made of thin material
• Contour: lightly padded to define breast shape

Cup Design

• Full Cup: covers the entire breast
• Demi Cup: covers half the breast
• Balconette: wide straps and low cut. Creates revealing cleavage.
• T-shirt: Unseamed over cup to give smooth line
• Soft Cup: No underwire
• Minimiser: Full cup to give light compression to make breasts appear smaller

Specialist

• Sports: Close fitting, restricts movement of breast during exercise
• Maternity: adjustable over course of pregnancy
• Nursing: opens for easy access to nipple for suckling baby
• Mastectomy: double lined and designed to fit a prosthesis
• Post surgery: soft, unwired, and front opening

Features

• Plunge: low centre front for wearing with low-cut tops
• Front Closure: easy front fastening and smooth back
• Adhesive: reusable or disposable, stick-on cups for smaller breast sizes
• Racerback: straps join at back near neck so shoulders are bare
• Convertible: straps adjust for various styles
• Bandeau: strapless bra
• Longline: Band sits lower on the torso
• Crop Top: No underwire, great coverage, very comfortable
• Body Shaping: shapes around the back
• Liquid Filled: push-up bra with gel padding
• Removable Padding: adjust level of push-up by adding or removing padding

Structure
• Underwire: metal, plastic or resin sewn under cups for added support
• Wire-free: banding only used for under-cup support

Padding

• None: no padding
• Light: small layer of padding
• Medium: lightly boosts cleavage with medium padding support
• Push-Up: large boost and support
• Ultra Push-Up: Look up to a cup size larger with high boost level

Fabric

• Sheer: fully see-through
• Lace: all lace or with lace detail
• Printed: patterned
• Embroidered: Patterned with stitching
• Plain: basic without pattern or trim

Impact/Support

• Low: everyday use
• Medium: Support Factor 2: SF2 = cycling, walking: reduce breast bounce by 45%
• High: SF3 = jogging, soccer, basketball: reduce breast bounce by 50%
• Extreme: SF4 = athletics, marathons: reduce breast bounce by 60%.

From the Corset to the Girdle - 1920 - 1950

From the Corset to the Girdle…

After the end of World War One, women became “emancipated” in life and also in their clothing. A very boyish figure for girls and women became fashionable, and girls who were thin and smaller-breasted needed to wear no corsetry at all. The majority of women, however, still needed to wear shaping undergarments, and corsetry at this time was designed to flatten the breast and give the torso a tubular shape.

1920s

Elastic was used in these corsets, but at that time it was very heavy, tough and stretched in only one direction. The garment was very tight and had steel supports built in. This newer type of corset was renamed the “girdle”. No lacing was required as the elastic gave a good fit. Hook fastening was used, though for more “traditional” ladies a front lacing option was available.

Laced Girdle

The all-in-one girdle became popular by the late 1920s, with women being encouraged by manufacturer Berlei to “fit foundations before frocks”. Very restrictive underwear was worn under sleek, tight fitting dresses. Suspenders were built into the girdle, and at this time still had heavy buckles which could often be seen under the line of the dress. The all in one girdle was heavily boned with spiral steel and often had a controlling underbelt as well. These garments were very uncomfortable to wear. Not only was their wear necessary for fashionable reasons, but they were considered necessary for morality.

Rubber began to be used as a girdle material in the 1930s. An all-rubber, perforated undergarment offered a little more flexibility (the perforations were to allow the body to sweat), but must have been very unpleasant to wear in hot weather. In cold weather, women had to be careful they not sit too close to their fireplaces lest the girdle melt.

Advert for rubber girdle

Rubber Girdle 1934

These undergarments were functional and not made to look attractive. The early girdle was worn over panties and a slip – it was too uncomfortable to wear against the skin, and was so heavy as to be difficult to wash. Corsetry was still very heavily constructed in the 1930s, and most of these were available in either tea rose or salmon pink colours.

By 1939 the era of the boyish “Flapper” was over and Paris designers attempted to reintroduce a rounder figure with a waspish thin waist. The coming of World War 2 stopped the advance of this fashion trend due to material shortages and other concerns. Women repaired their clothing instead of buying new, and often went without a girdle at all, favouring a slip and panties alone.
After the war ended, Christian Dior revolutionised women’s fashion with his “New Look” in 1947: again the very feminine female form was celebrated, with wide shoulders, tiny waists, and very full skirts. Tight corsets were worn to achieve the tiny waist; these were usually very short, leaving the hips free. Tight lacing was again required to get this look; a conventional girdle was even worn underneath. As many were still recovering economically from the war, this was a fashion reserved for the wealthy few.

Dior’s New Look 1947

Waspish waist and full skirt

Made to measure corsets and girdles became popular and most department stores employed dedicated, specialist corset fitters…

Next week: Girdles in the 1950s and beyond…

Just what do Scots wear under their kilts?

Just what do Scots wear under their kilts?

According to popular belief, a "true" Scotsman wears absolutely nothing under his kilt. Bit breezy? Yes. But is this actually true - or simply the stuff of folklore?

The answer is yes - and no.

Historically, the Celts were the earliest kilt wearers, or wore versions of the kilt. They certainly did not wear undergarments per se, but tucked very long shirts or tunics under their kilts for comfort. There was a later undergarment worn in Scotland, referred to as "trews": and all-in-one garment of knitted hose and loose breeches. It was sometimes trimmed in leather or buckskin on the inner thigh, to provide comfort and prevent wearing down or the garment when horseback riding.

It has historically been a British military requirement that men be naked under their kilt. This is a custom that endures to this day. Being "commando" under one's kilt  is referred to as wearing "Traditional" Scottish dress, or "going Regimental".

The only occasions when a Scottish Soldier in uniform can (and should) wear underwear is when dancing or performing gymnastics.

Outside the military, the question of what to wear under the kilt is up to personal preference. Some men will, purely for reasons of Scottish pride, be "traditional". Others will wear boxer shorts or briefs. Underwear with a kilt these days is always required when participating in highland games or highland dancing - high kicks and swinging kilts are not conducive to bare nether regions!

Some pipe bands associated with military regiments do require or at least recommend use of undergarments, as pipers can use a high-stepping march.

Kilts are also very breezy and very scratchy, being made of wool - and not soft wool at that! Underwear will undoubtedly provide much-needed comfort and a sense of protection.

It is not considered polite to inquire of a kilted man  as to whether anything is being worn underneath it all. Some have suggested that the following be the response to the unending questioning as to whether anything is worn under there: “no wear, everything is in perfect condition, thank you for asking.”

Postscript: The writer of this article can confirm from personal experience that Scots the world over do wear nothing under their kilts:

 A cousin of hers piped the cortege as it left the funeral service of a great aunt, in full Scottish dress and regalia. Later in the day, as a much needed cup of tea was being enjoyed, another person posed the question of just what was under the kilt. No real answer was given, however later in the day a cheeky "flash" from across the room (and for your writer's eyes only) answered the question once and for all. Let's hope no kilt wearers are allergic to wool!

Stay Tuned for more exciting underwear history next week!

A Short History of Underwear #6 – Corsetry – Part 3 – 1875-1920

Another dramatic change in women’s fashion occurred around 1875; the large crinoline skirt made way for longer, slimmer lines of dress design. This elegant look, combined with such a narrow waist, had what is possibly an unsurprisingly positive effect on the male libido – even more incentive for women, during what was such a morally repressive time, to continue tightlacing.

To fit in with these new dress designs, corsets were required to be longer, covering the entire hip area as well as up to the bust. In 1876 the “swan-bill” corset made its debut: it had a very long, strong, front-fastening busk, with a curved end. Back fastening corsets were also sometimes worn, as the fastenings at the front were apt to interfere with the close-fitting bodices of slim fitting dresses.

"Hose supporters” were also beginning to be attached to the corset, to replace garters.

Corsets were now made for beauty as well as function, from silk, satin and brocade with  lace trimmings, and in rich, jewel colours.

During the 1890s, the full hourglass was again in vogue and women padded their hips and shoulders, and wore huge “leg’o’mutton” sleeves while cinching their waists to the extreme, to  facilitate a true hourglass look.

By 1902, corsetry had again evolved to provide a whole “New Look”. An new era (Edwardian) saw this look immortalised by the drawings of Charles Gibson. The figure was corseted into an “S-bend” shape: unnatural, uncomfortable, but oh so desirable, a very firm front busk forced the breasts up and forward, hips back and bottom out, this look was further enhanced by the wearing of a bustle. The waist was narrowed and made to look long in the front and short in the back.

Also known as the “health corset”, and devised by a medical doctor, it was considered to place less damaging pressure on the stomach and provided less breast support. This was surely counteracted by the pressure on the spine of the wearer.

By 1908 corsets were worn longer and longer, to slim the hips as well. Mid-thigh was a common end point for the corset, yet  they did not always extend so high on the breast. Sitting down was particularly uncomfortable, if not impossible. Unless wealthy, most women wore corsets of coutille, which is basically modern-day denim.

Fortunately for women, the corset became of secondary concern with the coming of WWI. Metal was needed for the war effort,  and  less constricting fashions were adopted out of necessity as well as common sense. By the time the war came to an end in 1918, it was the dawn of the “Flapper” era … and a completely new body shape for women was to be the ideal.

Next week –Just what do Scots wear under those Kilts?

A Short History of Underwear Part 5: Women’s Corsetry #1 – 2000BC – 1790

A Short History of Underwear Part 5:  Women’s Corsetry #1 – 2000BC – 1790

Say the word “corset” and all kinds of images spring to mind: from sexy or fetishist lingerie to nightmare-inducing days of old where women were tight-laced within an inch of their lives (literally!) to fit with the dictates of the fashions of the time and even as a symbol of society’s morality.

There is, however, much more to the story. Not even originally used primarily to narrow the waist, its primary function in earlier times was to change or enhance the body’s shape, particularly support and position the breasts.

The word “corset” comes from 12^th Century France, and meant a “laced bodice”.  A corset was commonly referred to as “stays” from about 1600 to the 1900s.

The earliest images of the corset date from Crete in 2000BC. At that time it was worn as a snug but not tight outer-garment to support the mid-section.

The corset became very popular in Italy in the early 1500s and was brought to the French Court by Catherine de Medici. It consisted at that time of a tight, elongated under-bodice, and was worn with a farthingale: a device worn under skirts to hold them in a stiff cone shape. The corset had shoulder straps and was of an inverted cone shape to oppose the conical shape of the skirts. Made of an iron frame covered in velvet, its purpose was to flatten the bodice (including the breasts) to push the breasts up and enhance the bust where they were pushed out from the top of the bodice. Narrowing of the waist was of little to no concern.

By the mid-1500s the corset had made its way into fashion throughout the rest of Europe and Britain and was more comfortably made of whalebone and wood.

During the reign of Elizabeth I, corsets were made of a  very stiff whalebone. A “busk” was worn, constructed of a mixture of whalebone, wood, ivory, horn or metal to stiffen the front of the bodice, and was removable from the “stays”, which were made of multiple layers of linen.  While some women found it fashionable to cinch the waist (the queen did so), the emphasis was still on the contrast of the flatness of the bodice and the curving top of the breasts. Others did not wear corsets at all – Mary Queen of Scots is said to have not worn a corset.

During the French Revolution, corsetry spent a time being out of fashion.

In the early 1700s, an inverted conical shape was given to the bodice to contrast with the fullness of the skirts worn below. The corset’s purpose was to raise the breasts, tighten the midriff, support the back and improve posture, while only slightly narrowing the waist. Informally, quilted linen “jumps” were worn to give slight support. Only partially boned, they were less restrictive and more comfortable.

Corsetry was about to change by the 1790s…

 Next Week – Corsetry Part 2 – 1796 – 1875

Voodoo Hosiery

Check out our enormous range of Voodoo Hosiery – including new lines just in!

Whether you’re looking for sheers or opaques, fishnets or knee highs – we have it all.

Shop for your hosiery at undiewarehouse for the latest in style and fashion at the best prices you’ll find.

A Short History of Underwear - Part 4 - 1930's - 2000

A Short History of Underwear: Part 4 – 1930s – 2000.

A big revolution in men’s underwear came in 1934 – with the introduction of Jockey’s Y-Front range. Having begun manufacturing men’s snug-fitting briefs – considered risqué at the time – in 1930, this new innovative Y-front diagonal vent feature was soon adapted into boxers and briefs as well as into long-johns.

In 1936, a company called Munsingwear developed the horizontal vent line of men’s undies known as the “kangaroo pouch”.

Kangaroo Pouch

Nothing much changed during the early 1940s, while the world was at war. To save for the war effort, Jockey stopped using elastic waistbands for a time and reintroduced the woven band with side buttons. In addition to this, unbeknownst to the civilians back home, soldiers wore boxer shorts in army-green – important for camouflage, as white shorts drying on a line in the jungle would have been far too obvious!

WWII Army Undies

After the war, pre-shrunk cotton blend fabrics were used for underwear manufacture, and briefs and boxers became the norm for everyday wear..

Print patterns became available for the first time by the 1950s. Simple geometric patterns were followed by wild animals, playing cards and dice, to name but a small sample of what was available.Synthetic fibres were also introduced in the 1950s, including rayon and nylon, affording more comfort and better fit.

1950s Advert

Thanks in part to cinema, the T-shirt graduated from being purely an undershirt and became acceptable outerwear for certain circumstances.  Notably, stars like James Dean in “Rebel Without a Cause”, and Marlon Brando in “A Streetcar Named Desire”, brought the T-shirt-as-a-shirt to the attention of the masses and the fashion for it took off.

Brando

James Dean

The biggest evolution in the 1960s and early 1970s for underwear was that it was coming off! The hippie and liberation movements saw youth shed their undies as a protest – against anything they felt the need to protest, including the Vietnam War.

In the 1970s T-shirts began to be used for advertising – rock bands, movies, businesses, branding, sporting teams, etc.  Wearing what you love or showing your allegiance to on your chest was desirable, especially among teens and younger people. And as exercise for its own sake came more into vogue, the jockstrap was a popular piece for lots of men.

Band T-Shirt

Jockstrap

In 1982, men’s undies became more of a fashion item as Calvin Klein launched his men’s undies line. Some of the most famous advertising campaigns since have been for this brand.

Today the range of available men’s undies is enormous – long gone are the days where we sewed them at home.  Men tend to personally prefer either “boxer” or “brief” (or commando!) – but comfort, a sense of protection, and a certain level of enhancement are qualities a man seeks in his choice of undies – and that has not changed in over two thousand years!

Next Week: Part 5: Women’s Corsetry #1